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....and with all that being said and done, you're putting it in a SUPER COOL car that we all love and grew up on loving in the late 80's early 90's

What's you timming when it starts boost wot

Super cool build. I’m thinking of changing my carburetor to Sniper2.

Great video!!! Thank you

I poured bars stop leak in 3 months ago and still holding 🤞🏻

Has anyone done this on a 2018 transit 250 3.5? I need to do the passenger side. It’s leaking where it goes into the block. Just from quick glance it looks like the compressor would need to be moved? Also my fender wells are solid metal so no access that way.

What wire are you using to run the ignition box to run the ls coils

you give it the beans wfo

i’m done hearing this this is such bullshit. the compressors are 3’ AWAY! look at an older turbo car. these are nothing but NVH reducers.

Dont ever leave a open hole into any part of your engine. vent to air means you got a half inch open hole into your intercooler. perfect for mice, wasps, any critter under a half inch basically. if your gonna do it. put 2 or 3 dryer sheets over the open hole and tighten them down. all animals and insects are looking for a small and warm place to live...

What did you use to support the engine off of the k memeber?

I have a 85 Camaro with a 5.3 ls how much you think you spent in parts to put a turbo on it I want a turbo as well

Dude, used this video 2 years ago to do my first one. Doing again on a different truck today. Thank you so much for making this, couldn't do it without it!

Nice.. can I use my truck intake on the 4.8 stock - will it fit under the stock hood of my 89 Formula?

Tried and True

Hope I can get mine running this good

With the 470 ohms resistor inline it shouldn't matter much if it was straight to the battery because at 12v off or 14v running its sub 30 ma that can flow but switched it ideal

I see lots of comments of people not knowing this but the info has been available on the internet for several years before this

My turbos are loud AF on my 18 during acceleration. Surprisingly. I feel like its louder than any one ive heard lol. I havent even pulled the pipe or anything to check if the swirls are gone or not. But did do a VTA plug on the lower hose

Ty ty ty. Hope u get this, been trying to wire a LS in my airboat. Not many people willing to give up free help. Ty ty ty. Any thoughts does a msd 6014 need a fuse/circuit breakerand if so what size? Does a starter need need same. Any help greatly appreciated

Did this today was able to get my hands in there but I have extremely long fingers lmao

Great video. thanks for showing all the real issues and not just an assembly video.

Just for y'all's info: P: Pulse (or Stator Pulse). This terminal is used for tachometers, which measure engine RPM. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Hey, look how fast I'm spinning!" L: Lamp (or Warning Lamp). This terminal connects to the warning lamp on your dashboard. When the alternator isn't doing its job, this lamp lights up to say, "Hey, something's not right!" F: Field (or Rotor). This terminal controls the alternator's field coil, which helps regulate the alternator's output voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "I've got this under control!" S: Sense (or Battery Voltage Sense). This terminal is used to sense the battery voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Let me check the battery's level before I give it a boost!"

Is that a sniper 2 model?

I have a 93 camaro. l just did a 5.3 4l60e swap,had the factory truck computer deleted,the biggest mistake l made was using a BMR tubular subframe, was absolutely garbage sent it back twice for alignment issues and still isn't right,can't wait to see yours up and running

What cage is that? Summit kit?

Couldn’t you run the L wire with the 470ohm right to the main lug on the back and then only one wire to the battery. Then it wouldn’t burn it up. Or would that eventually drain your battery

As soon as you said “run the exciter wire to a key switch 12v source” I knew I had it wrong. Just did what you said and now it works. Thank you!! 🔥🔥

Nice I was the 666th like on this vid lol ok thanks for info

Mines still have 12 v even with in resistor

Do you know what the part number is for the passenger side?

Does your connector by any chance almost touch the mounting bolt hole were the fender attaches to , Im going to cut the bolt threads so it tightens the fender down

We’re should I connect the yellow coil input and and the purple and green wires

We’re did u connect the yellow coil input and the green and purple wires ?

What did u connect the yellow coil input to from the holley sniper and the purple and green wires

These aftermarket self contained efi throttle bodies are a modern form of the old chevy TBI deals. They took a 4150 style throttle body and added injectors to the sides where some even look like holley style fuel bowls. And instead of hosing down into the intake these things use annular rings with a bunch of little holes in them which gives good atomization and gets the injectors out of the air stream. And the injectors are based on the LS3 units as far as how long and wide they are and like dude said they run stupid amounts of fuel per hour and if you want to you can get the injectors from the bigger aka more expensive sniper system and install them into your deal (cfm on the throttle bodies are the same until you get into the terminator series) and after a little reprogramming your TB can support 800 instead of 650h👍. And self tune will work as advertised for everything but full throttle you need a wide band and log your data

How many big brains have given you all the many reasons that using the tbi setup is wrong?

You like spending money you don’t need to boy

What year is that z28 next to the truck..btw. I also have 2018 F150 and gonna do the samething

Why did Ford go to the studs instead of the bolts

Thanks for explaining everything. I can't find anything about snipers on ls motors, I've been winging it for awhile lol

Well, damn, I’ve got a leak on the rear of the engine.

Did you have to turn the strut 180 or did you just swap the driver and passenger struts

I'm curious about the "F" wire. It seems the field wire would need to be attached also, but you say no, so I'm gonna try it your way. Thanks. Good video

Flexplate that works and needs no mods or kit to make it work. It's the ATP Z-270 Flexplate LQ4 LQ9 LS Swap With TH400 4L80E Automatic Transmission 168T.

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My 2018 F150 with the 3.5L just blew all the coolant out of nowhere driving down the highway. The first warning I received was the blinking "ENGINE OVERHEATING" light in the dash. I immediately stopped, refilled the coolant/water but then the engine wouldn't start. I have all kinds of warning signals going off and the truck is acting like the battery is dead. Tried unplugging the battery and reseting the computer but it didn't work. Tried jumping the battery still didn't work. I actually think the leak came from the hose right up top in the driver's side because it sprayed fluid all over the wiring harnesses by the brake box. I'm at a loss now. Any ideas? I also tested the alternator and it's good but the truck won't start. I'm afraid it seized up but it only ran two miles overheating. Oh and I paid $3800 for an extended warranty to cover everything up to 75,000 miles but I just passed 87,000 and now this🤬

You dont prime after you add your new oil?

I ordered a 100 pack of 470ohm 1/2w resistors, and wired it just like you explained in the video. Didnt work I can take a peice of wire straighr from a battery, hook the resistor to 1 end of the wire and test voltage on the other side of the resistor and its still 12v, i ordered a 100 pack, none of them make it go down to 5v I ended up cutting the unused map sensor pigtail and used the 5v reference wire Holley should give you a 5v spaee on the harness somewhere

Wow‼️🤷🏾 Love it‼️🤟🏾